Technics 1200/1210 pitch jump near 0 position

Hi, I'm using traktor scratch pro with 2 technics turntables.
When i have 2 songs with very similar bpm i'm having problem if pitch position is near 0.
Suppose that:

deck A is playing at 128.45

i load song on deck B, i put the pitch to 0 position and i let the music start.

BPM B goes at 129 bpm..i have to decrease the speed.

If now i turn just a little slowly up the pitch (for decrease tempo) it goes crazy to about 127.50 bpm.

Somebody told me to try pulling off a little ball inside the pitch-slide that lock a little the zero position ..but i'm not sure it's the problem
Any help
Thanks

 

I found it's a double zero positions problem. I made a youtube movie for show the symptoms on ts pro
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYr_GPpV29g"]YouTube- Double Zero Position on some Technics turntable pitch slider (Symptoms in traktor scratch pro)[/ame]

 

this is what happens to me with CDJ1000s...any ideas how to solve the problem?

 

I think what DJ Kad is saying is that the slider on your actual turntable has more than one position where the speed is "0." If that's the case, then there is nothing wrong with Traktor; the problem is with the turntable's pitch control.

Could this be caused by dirt inside the slider?

 

Well..i've tryed to do the calibration but i've always 0.50Bpm of difference. It's not the solution
---
i'm gonna ask to my other dj friends. Some of them use vestax...For technics (older model) the main problem is the Quarz lock at 0 position. in other parts it works good

 

You could remove the quartz lock on your technics.. It's cutting 1 cable on your pitch fader print. And there is also a way to remove the mechanical click from the fader, but that involves opening up the fader itself: A little more tricky than just opening a turntable ...


But the better way around this (at least if you play a lot on rented SL1200's which aren't modified), is to keep away from 0. If I notice I'm coming close to the zero point on the pitch slider, I will just bump the pitch of the other turntable up or down a half percent or so. No-one will hear, and you are away from the quartz lock

For the very same reason, when I start to play, I set my pitch at +4% in advance. Actually that's how every DJ before you has dealt with the quartz lock issue on the MKII...

A OEM turntable (ie Synq) doesn't have this problem anymore as you can disable quartz lock with a button. Also a SL1200 MK5 has this button. I'm not sure if other turntables (like Vestax) even have a quartz lock: It was heavily pattented by Technics. Only 5 years or so ago the patent was release (I believe a patent can only be valid for 25 years), and some OEM manufacturer jumped on that opportunity and made the Synq/American DJ/other OEM's turntable...

 

this is a normal issue on technics turntables whether you using them with tracktor or with normal vinyl. you can remove the ball bearing out of the pitch slider but you have to open the turntable and dismatle the pitch slider to do this...

i just work around it... have done for 16 years.

 

I know about the bearing ball and i'm sure it's not the problem..I know how to remove it but the problem is outside the bearing ball zone. I know also about the orange cable for disable quartz lock, but since you find different turntables in clubs i don't wanna have practice with something that will be different on clubs.


"But the better way around this (at least if you play a lot on rented SL1200's which aren't modified), is to keep away from 0. If I notice I'm coming close to the zero point on the pitch slider, I will just bump the pitch of the other turntable up or down a half percent or so. No-one will hear, and you are away from the quartz lock"

this is the best solution

 

Very wise conclusion

 

Yeah well... you actually need to do an awful lot of experimenting and have rather good metering equipment if you intend to manually calibrate it (this is why in the factory it is done by robots; they have time

What I'm saying is that you might get the calibration correct - if you're lucky. But most of the times, when the "actual" 0% has moved away from the actual center of the fader, it is very hard to ever get it back there; as said, it will take a lot of time spent on trial and error. I think DiscoPoelie is right - avoiding the "zero-area" might be easier.

The reason people have been suggesting removing the ball bearing is that - as you've noticed - you do have two zeropoints. The other one is the fader's zero point and the other one is the quarz locked zero point. Removing the ball bearing removes the quarz locked zero point. So - after removing it, you would only have one zero in your pitch fader... it wouldn't be where the "0%"-marking is, but you would only have one place where the speed is zero. Just thought to mention this...